The craft

It starts with the last.

The last is the form a shoe takes shape around. Its proportions govern the line of the toe, the arch and where the heel meets the ground.

Anatomy of a shoe

Four construction details

A last sets the length, width and volume around which the shoe is built. A pointed pump and an almond-toed flat begin with different forms.

The upper wraps the foot. The placement of seams, the height of the opening and the width of a strap change how much of the foot shows.

Lasting shapes the upper around the form. The sole and heel then determine how the profile sits against the ground.

Edges, hardware and surface finish guide the eye. A polished buckle can punctuate a quiet upper, while high gloss can emphasize a clean line.

For retail buyers

Shortlist silhouettes for your assortment and note any questions about samples or finishes.